Fluctuating gold prices had a direct impact on the quality of zari. Traditionally made using real gold and silver, zari depended heavily on the cost of these metals. As prices rose, using pure materials became less viable for large-scale production.
This change affected more than just pricing. It altered the material itself. What was once a fine, metal-based thread gradually shifted towards coated and synthetic alternatives. Despite this, zari remained one of India’s most significant textile crafts, known for its detail and labour-intensive process.
The shine stayed. The substance behind it began to change.
Also watch: Chandni Chowk’s Designer Lehenga Replicas 2025 Edition | Brut IRL
What Exactly Is Zari Work?
Zari refers to metallic thread used in weaving and embroidery, often seen in saris, lehengas and other festive wear. Traditionally, it was made by wrapping silver, sometimes plated with gold, around a silk or cotton core.
Today, much of the zari in the market is electroplated or imitation. This version uses materials like polyester, copper or brass, finished with a metallic coating to resemble gold.
The difference is subtle but important. Real zari has a softer, richer finish and tends to last longer. Electroplated zari is more affordable and widely available, but it may lose its sheen over time.
Also watch: Would you buy sarees in less than Rs. 1,000? Drop your go-to spot for wedding shopping!
The Craft Behind The Thread
Zari is a traditional Indian craft dating back to the Mughal era, when it symbolized power and wealth in royal garments. Over time, centres like Varanasi and Surat developed specialised techniques and strong artisan communities, embedding zari into bridalwear, festive clothing, and heirloom traditions.
The craft involves creating metal threads by flattening and wrapping them around yarn, then using them in weaving or embroidery. Despite some mechanisation, skilled artisans still control design, tension, and detailing, giving zari its distinctive texture, depth, and character.
Beyond Weddings: Why Designers Still Care
Zari was once strongly associated with bridalwear and occasion dressing. That connection still exists, but its use has expanded.
Designers like Manish Malhotra, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Anita Dongre, began exploring zari beyond traditional formats, incorporating it into contemporary silhouettes and everyday luxury pieces. The appeal lay in its texture, heritage and ability to add depth without overwhelming a design.
Fashion designer Manish Malhotra had noted that brides increasingly looked for ensembles rooted in history, where craftsmanship played a visible role. He highlighted that clients valued pieces that carried legacy and could last beyond a single event.
This shift reflected a broader interest in craftsmanship. Zari, even in its adapted forms, continued to represent detailed work and cultural continuity.
Where Zari Stands Now
Zari had not disappeared, but it had evolved. Real zari became less common due to rising material costs, while electroplated versions dominated the market.
At the same time, its cultural and design value remained intact. It continued to shape Indian fashion, from traditional wear to modern interpretations.
The story of zari today is not just about loss. It is about adaptation. The craft adjusted to changing conditions, while its core identity stayed relevant.
